YRCall (905) 000-0000

Stove burner not working: what it usually is on coil, glass, gas and induction

One dead burner is almost never the whole cooktop. Here is what it usually is on each type, what you can check yourself, and what affects the cost. Call or email for a quote.

  • Clear quote before any work starts
  • Licensed, insured technicians
  • All major brands: Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Bosch, Frigidaire, Maytag, KitchenAid, Miele
  • Serving York Region and North York

Book a repair

We reply during business hours.

Coil-top electric stove

  • The coil itself. Burns out or breaks at the terminals. Swap it with a working coil from another position to confirm.
  • The receptacle. The socket the coil plugs into, which burns and loses contact over years. If a known-good coil does not heat in that position, this is likely.
  • The infinite switch. The control behind the knob. If the burner is either fully on or fully off with nothing in between, or dead with a good coil and socket, the switch has failed. Same-visit repair.

Glass or ceramic cooktop

Under the glass, each burner is a separate radiant element with its own switch, so one dead zone means one part, not the cooktop.

  • Radiant element. Failed, and replaced from underneath without touching the glass.
  • Infinite switch or control board. If the element tests fine.
  • Limiter. A safety on each element that shuts it off if the glass gets too hot. When it fails, the element cycles off early or never comes on.

A cracked glass top is the one fault where the cost approaches replacement on an older range; we say so on the diagnostic.

Gas burner

  • Igniter. Clicks weakly or not at all. Dry it, seat the burner cap straight, and if it still fails, replace it.
  • Spark module. Powers all the igniters; when it fails, several burners stop sparking or click constantly.
  • Clogged burner head or ports. Boil-overs block the ports so the burner lights unevenly or not at all. A cleaning fixes it.
  • Gas valve. The knob turns but no gas flows. A licensed technician handles it.

A burner that clicks without lighting can let gas accumulate. Turn it off and call.

Induction cooktop

  • Induction coil. Each zone has its own coil under the glass.
  • Power board. Drives one or more zones; when it fails, those zones die together.
  • Cookware. If a zone works with one pot and not another, the pot is not magnetic enough. Test with a fridge magnet on the base.
  • Error codes. Usually mean no pan detected, overheating, or a board fault. We quote induction boards before ordering because they are the expensive part.

What to do in the next hour

  1. On a coil stove, swap the dead coil with a working one.
  2. On a gas stove, dry the igniter and reseat the burner cap.
  3. On induction, test the pan with a magnet.
  4. If a gas burner clicks without lighting, turn it off and call.

What it costs

Pricing depends on the appliance, the brand, the fault and the part, so we do not publish a price list. Tell us what it is doing and we will tell you what to expect before anyone comes out. Call or email for a quote.

Where we work

We serve Richmond Hill, Markham, Aurora, Newmarket, Stouffville and Thornhill, and North York and King City. Call or email for the earliest available appointment. Related: oven not heating and oven and stove repair across York Region.

Questions we get asked

How much does oven or stove repair cost?

It depends on the brand, the fault and the part. Call (905) 000-0000 or email hello@yorkregionappliancepros.ca with the symptom and we will tell you what to expect.

What are the most common oven or stove problems you fix?

Oven not heating; Stove burner not working; Oven temperature is off; Gas smell or burner won't light; Door won't close or lock.

Which brands?

Samsung, LG, GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Bosch, Maytag, Wolf and most others.

Where do you offer oven or stove repair?

Richmond Hill, Markham, Aurora, Newmarket, Stouffville, Thornhill, North York and King City.

One coil burner is dead. Can I just swap it with another one?

Yes, and that is the best test. Pull the dead coil and plug a working one from another position into its socket. If the working coil heats there, the dead coil is the problem, and a replacement is inexpensive. If the working coil does not heat there either, it is the socket or the switch behind the knob, which we replace on one visit.

My gas burner clicks constantly, even when other burners are off. What is that?

Moisture or food in the igniter, or a spark module that has started to fail. Dry the area around the burner cap and igniter thoroughly, make sure the cap is seated straight. If it keeps clicking, it is the spark module, which we replace. Constant clicking with a burner that will not light is the same fault plus a clogged burner head; stop using it and call.

Related

Need it fixed fast?

Call or email and we will give you the earliest available appointment. No-cooling fridges and active leaks get priority.

Call (905) 000-0000