Oven not heating: what it usually is on electric and gas ovens
An oven that will not heat is almost always one cheap part, and which part depends on whether it is electric or gas. Here is how to tell, and what affects the cost. Call or email for a quote.
- Clear quote before any work starts
- Licensed, insured technicians
- All major brands: Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Bosch, Frigidaire, Maytag, KitchenAid, Miele
- Serving York Region and North York
Electric oven, not heating
An electric oven runs on a double breaker: one half powers the controls and lights, the other the elements. If the display works but the oven stays cold, check the breaker panel first for a single tripped half. If the breaker is fine, the fault is one of:
- Bake element. The lower element burns out with age, and you can usually see it: a break, a blister, or a spot that glowed brighter than the rest before it failed. If bake is dead but broil works, this is it. Same-visit repair.
- Broil element. The upper element, if broil is dead but bake works.
- Temperature sensor. A thin probe at the back of the oven cavity. When it drifts, the oven heats slowly, runs cold, or shows an F1, F2 or F3 code. Same-visit repair.
- Control board or relay board. The element is never switched on. Less common, and we quote against the oven's age and whether the board is still made.
- Oven thermostat. On older ranges without a digital control.
Gas oven, not heating
A gas oven has to light every time it heats, and the igniter does that job:
- Igniter. Glows orange but has weakened so it never draws enough current to open the safety valve. The most common gas oven fault, and the repair is routine.
- Safety valve. Opens when the igniter proves hot. Fails less often than the igniter.
- Gas supply. Check the burners on top; if they do not light either, the supply or the shut-off is the issue.
Gas work is done by a licensed technician.
Heats, but slowly or unevenly
- Temperature sensor drifting, so the oven thinks it is hotter than it is.
- Door gasket worn or torn, letting heat out and taking forever to preheat. Common on ovens over ten years old.
- One of two elements failed, so the oven heats from one side only.
- Convection fan stopped on a convection oven, so heat pools.
Wall ovens
Wall ovens fail on exactly the same parts as ranges, and are worth repairing for longer because replacing one means matching a cabinet cut-out that may no longer exist. We carry the common GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Bosch and Frigidaire wall-oven elements.
What to do in the next hour
- Check both halves of the oven breaker.
- On an electric oven, look at the bake element for a visible break.
- On a gas oven, watch the igniter: if it glows for more than a minute with no flame, it is weak.
- Do not keep trying a gas oven that clicks without lighting. Call.
What it costs
Pricing depends on the appliance, the brand, the fault and the part, so we do not publish a price list. Tell us what it is doing and we will tell you what to expect before anyone comes out. Call or email for a quote.
Where we work
We serve Richmond Hill, Markham, Aurora, Newmarket, Stouffville and Thornhill, and North York and King City. Call or email for the earliest available appointment. Related: stove burner not working and oven and stove repair across York Region.
Questions we get asked
How much does oven or stove repair cost?
It depends on the brand, the fault and the part. Call (905) 000-0000 or email hello@yorkregionappliancepros.ca with the symptom and we will tell you what to expect.
What are the most common oven or stove problems you fix?
Oven not heating; Stove burner not working; Oven temperature is off; Gas smell or burner won't light; Door won't close or lock.
Which brands?
Samsung, LG, GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Bosch, Maytag, Wolf and most others.
Where do you offer oven or stove repair?
Richmond Hill, Markham, Aurora, Newmarket, Stouffville, Thornhill, North York and King City.
The oven light and clock work but it never gets hot. Is that the element?
On an electric oven, yes, most likely. The lights and controls run on 120 volts and the element on 240, so a tripped half of the double breaker, or a burnt-out bake element, gives you a working display and a cold oven. Look at the bottom element: a break, blister or bright spot means it has failed.
My gas oven clicks or glows but never lights. Is it dangerous?
Turn it off and call. On a gas oven the igniter has to glow hot enough to open the gas valve; when it weakens it glows but never lights, which is a routine repair. But a burner that clicks without lighting can let gas accumulate, so stop using it until it is fixed. A licensed technician does the work.
Related
Need it fixed fast?
Call or email and we will give you the earliest available appointment. No-cooling fridges and active leaks get priority.
Call (905) 000-0000