Washer leaking: where the water is coming from tells you what is wrong
Active leaks are priority calls, especially in condos where the water goes to the unit below. Here is what each leak location means, what to shut off right now, and what affects the cost. Call or email for a quote.
- Clear quote before any work starts
- Licensed, insured technicians
- All major brands: Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Bosch, Frigidaire, Maytag, KitchenAid, Miele
- Serving York Region and North York
Leaking from the front, around the door
On a front-loader, water on the floor in front of the machine during the wash cycle is almost always the door boot seal, the big rubber bellows between the door and the drum. It tears from sharp objects left in pockets, or splits with age, or has mould behind a fold that stops it sealing. Occasionally the door hinge has sagged so the door no longer compresses the boot evenly.
Replacing a boot is a routine one-visit repair. We carry boots for the common LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Maytag, Electrolux and Bosch models, including the 24-inch stacked units in the condo corridors.
Leaking from underneath
Water pooling under the machine points to something inside:
- Drain pump or its hoses. A cracked pump housing or a loose hose clamp leaks on the drain part of the cycle.
- Tub-to-pump hose or the tub seal. Leaks on every cycle, and gets worse.
- Inlet valve. Leaks even when the machine is off, because it is under supply pressure. Close the valves behind the machine and the leak stops.
- Cracked outer tub. Rare, and the one washer leak that usually means replacement.
Leaking from the back
- Supply hoses. Check the connections at the valves and at the machine. Rubber supply hoses older than five years should be replaced with braided steel regardless; a burst one floods a basement.
- Drain hose. Pushed too far down the standpipe it siphons; pulled loose it sprays. Also splits with age.
- Overflowing standpipe. If the standpipe or laundry sink overflows when the washer drains, that is a blocked drain, which is plumbing.
Overfilling and leaking from the top
A water level pressure switch or inlet valve that will not shut off lets the tub overfill and spill from the door or the top of the tub. On top-loaders the same happens if the pressure switch hose has come off.
What to do in the next hour
- Close both supply valves behind the machine and unplug it.
- Note where the water is coming from, front, underneath or back, and whether it happens on fill, wash or drain. That tells us what to bring.
- In a condo, tell the concierge or property manager if water has reached the floor below; it is better coming from you.
- Call. Leaks are prioritised.
What it costs
Pricing depends on the appliance, the brand, the fault and the part, so we do not publish a price list. Tell us what it is doing and we will tell you what to expect before anyone comes out. Call or email for a quote.
Where we work
We serve Richmond Hill, Markham, Aurora, Newmarket, Stouffville and Thornhill, and North York and King City. Call or email for the earliest available appointment. Related: washer won't spin or drain and washer repair across York Region.
Questions we get asked
How much does washer repair cost?
It depends on the brand, the fault and the part. Call (905) 000-0000 or email hello@yorkregionappliancepros.ca with the symptom and we will tell you what to expect.
What are the most common washer problems you fix?
Washer won't spin or drain; Washer leaking; Washer not filling or stuck on a cycle; Loud banging during spin; Error codes (F21, OE, UE, E2).
Which brands?
Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, Electrolux, Bosch, Kenmore, Miele and most others.
Where do you offer washer repair?
Richmond Hill, Markham, Aurora, Newmarket, Stouffville, Thornhill, North York and King City.
What should I shut off right now?
The two supply valves behind the machine, hot and cold, then unplug it. If the leak is under the machine and still running after the valves are closed, the drum is draining through a failed hose or seal; put towels down and let it finish. Then call.
Is a leak from the door on a front-loader serious?
It is the most common washer leak and one of the cheapest to fix. The rubber door boot has a tear or a nick, usually from a bra wire, a key or a zipper, and water escapes on the wash cycle. A new boot is a one-visit repair. Keep the machine off until then; it will not get better.
Related
Need it fixed fast?
Call or email and we will give you the earliest available appointment. No-cooling fridges and active leaks get priority.
Call (905) 000-0000